The last week of December was a pleasant tour with Raghu, Vishwas to a number of places in our Karnataka. The period before that was full of hectic activities, and waiting for a fresh break, which makes the trip even sweeter.
We went for seven days savouring Belur, Ambaateertha(in Kalasa), Hanumaan gundi, Gangaamoola in Kudremukh, Kuvempu's Kuppalli, my friends wedding in Shivmogga, Unchalli falls, Yana, Magod falls, the river rafting and forest rides and sunsets in Dandeli, culminating with the ruins of the grand old Hampi.
Pictures speak louder than words they say.( really? even when the reader is reading it aloud! ).
Anyway, here's the link from my Kodak DX4330 camera. I wish somebody gifts me a D70....the only person I can hope to do so is my boss, but you know how bosses are.
http://employees.org/~vedu/Mini-karnataka-Tour
Any town we go had a few things which are common..for instance there are jewellery or pawn broker shops, wine shops always staring at you in the eye. Shivamogga city has too many wine shops, Shirsi has too many doctor shops. Dharwad has too many educational institutions. Its interesting to note the kannada accent changing as we go from Benglur towards west and move north.
Unchalli falls was the most exciting part, thanks to Raghu for taking us up there, and to Vishwas for pushing me to climb down the hill and back up again. A treacherous climb nevertheless, but it was a heaven from the foot of the huge falls and sweet water to drink.
The people living in ghats seem to cut short distances by atleast 30% when they say it. They may say something to be 2 km which seems like 3-4 km by walk :(. But their warmth can be felt instantly. The first thing they would usually enquire is where you came from. We had to reach Ambaateertha and we asked a man in his 50s. He explained two routes and joined us for a kilometre or so in our car till his house.As he got down, he requested so many times to just come to his home, have eLneeru or something and move on. He could have just let us go after saying thanks. There seems like a basic connect between people, without any competition, just living together. We, living in the cities wont do anything for nothing.
The river rafting at Dandeli was fun, even though I felt it could have been even more exciting had it not been so safe. But a couple was having a great time, the guy was falling on her when he was asked to lean and she was telling everybody about it.
The main purpose of the trip was originally to visit Hampi(eit). Being the winter season, all hotels booked in Hospet, we were fortunate to find some hotel in a shady place for the night. But Malligi seemed like the best of them all, unbelievably
cheap as well, even though we didnt get it.
Hampi is more of an experience than a place. You would be facing the remains of grandeur of a past tens of centuries ago. You would be gasping at the sight looking around 'How could they do this with such stones' and thinking of scenes of destruction. It is said that it took 6 months after the battle of Talikota to bring the city to its knees. HaaLu(destroyed) Hampi seems like the correct words to describe it but it feels like rubbing salt on the wound.
Our guide Basavaraj explained things with a lot of interest and concern. Various dynasties ruled here, famous of them being the Sangama, TuLu dynasties. What we hear as Vijayanagara was founded in 1336 by Hakka and Bukka(Sangamas) under the guidance of guru Vidyaranya. Krishnadevaraya(TuLu) as we all know it was the most powerful ruler of the empire who ruled for over 20 years. This period is termed as the golden period when "gold was sold openly on streets". After Krishnadevaraaya, there were internal rivalries which helped the mohammadens attack, capture, loot and burn the place. A hood after the destruction has its left portion cut as if it is eaten away by a gaint bug. The capital of entire south india is now sadly, a gram panchayat.
The Viroopaaksha temple had its roots right from the 7th century AD where poojas are performed even now. The temple has been extended by various kings till the 16th century. Amazingly, the shadow of the main gOpura falls inside the temple as an inverted image through a hole using the pin-hole principle. Also, a small channel of tungabhadra river flows into the temple through the paakashaale(kitchen) of the temple.
The KadalekaaLu Ganapathi is about 20 ft high and the king's family used to perform poojas here it seems. They say that the word KadalekaaLu came from the shape of Ganeshas stomach. One can see that the stomach is cut vertically. It seems that the mohammedans, when they went on plundering temples believed that treasures could be kept at the bottom of an idol or inside it, and thus the cut.
One can see that the early buildings were made of stone. Later, when Tulu dynasty ruled, the architecture was such that buildings had the ground portion of it made of stone, the middle part of it was made of flat bricks and the upper part made of wood. Many structures are seen burnt on the top due to burning of the wood. The Lotus Mahal has ducts inside the wall which can circulate water through the ground and first floors with the intention that the rani got air-conditioning.
The bathing place for the rani collects water outside the building and after distilling, forms a small pond for her and her sakhis. You can see that women were given greater importance, for many of the engravings shows women in warfare. The Vitthala temple houses the famous stone chariot along with 56 small pillars which produce different sounds including the sapta-swaras. It is said that musicians used to play music using wooden sticks on these musi-pillars! Arabs trading their strong horses in exchange of jewels are also seen. There is a story of ramayana told in
pictures of stone. There were separate markets for trading jewels and ornaments, paan, horses and women!
You can easily sense that there is so much beneath the ground. It was sad to see a banana plantation just by the side of an old marketplace! The ASI have done a lot of work of late, albeit slow(it is a slow process) and excavations are being done even now. They have identified 400+ temples as of now, but there were about 1800+ temples in reality(many having their idols uprooted). The ASI museum shows how many places looked like before restoration, i could not but stand in awe of their work. Just a couple of months back, they found a few gold coins while excavating.
The government has initiated activities to spruce up and try to relive the glorious past by conducting the Hampi Utsav. Our Dy. CM MP Prakash has had a lot of part to play in this and it showed in the panchayat elections that when entire Ballary
voted for BJP, JD(S) won here.
